If you weren’t able to make it out to Pioneer days the other weekend, you missed out – it was a beautiful, sunny day, and between the demonstrations, vendors, and apple fritters, it was a great event. While there representing UGA Extension and 4-H, I was able to visit with a client of mine who asked for some information on pruning, and I’m happy to oblige! Keep in mind, UGA Extension is a free public service – shoot me an email at rlstew2@uga.edu or call 706-359-3233 with any questions or needs you might have. While we are a bit early in the season to start pruning, it’s never too early to learn a bit about what to do and what not to do.
I do want to clarify the difference between training and pruning. Training involves developing the framework of a young tree by directing tree growth. For example, training includes spreading limbs, trellising, and removal of improper limbs within the early years of growth. There are several types of training, but for most homeowners, an open or central leader is desirable – we want to maintain the tree at a height to make maintenance easier, and we want to keep the canopy of the tree open to help prevent disease and pest issues. Bending vertical limbs to splay them open can also stimulate fruit production earlier in the life of the tree and encourages the plant to put resources towards fruit instead of shoots.
Pruning, on the other hand, is done throughout the lifespan of the tree, and is done with the intention of improving fruit quality and tree structure. It is very difficult to correct a poorly trained tree through pruning, though some level of pruning will always be needed. Pruning is done for a few reasons, but often to reduce tree size, open the tree canopy for better light and air flow, improve structure of the tree, and remove dead, diseased, or damaged wood.
Both pruning and training should be done when the trees are dormant. Every fall, fruit trees will move energy reserves from their leaves to their trunks and root systems before dormancy. The next spring, these energy reserves are what are used to leaf out. We can remove part of the tree’s canopy when it’s dormant without removing any energy reserves, and a dormant-pruned tree will have fewer branches to leaf out and thus produces much more vigorous growth in the spring. Because of this aggressive growth (which takes energy away from fruit production), it’s important that we don’t remove too much growth at once. In our area, it is best to prune and train fruit trees in late winter – somewhere around February is usually good. Light pruning can also be done in the summer (August or later) to remove vegetative growth that’s 6-12” long through thinning cuts, but summer pruning will slow plant growth and does not have the invigorating effect of dormant pruning.
There are some technicalities of pruning that need to be followed as you work on your trees. First off, remember that mature trees are more tolerant of pruning activities than young trees, so tailor your pruning strategy accordingly. When it comes to pruning different varieties, a good rule of thumb is also to prune the latest blooming trees first, such as apples, and the earliest blooming, such as peaches, last. Educate yourself on the different types of pruning cuts that you can make such as thinning out vs heading back, and look at examples of well-trained and pruned trees before you begin on your own stock. When making pruning cuts, be sure to leave the branch collar, which contains specialized cells that will heal and prevent infection, but don’t leave stubs, as they won’t heal and will introduce fungi and other pathogens to the tree. Use proper tools for your pruning activities, keep them sharp, and disinfect them regularly to help prevent the spread of pathogens like Fire Blight.
Training and pruning of fruit trees is a critical management activity to ensure healthy growth and fruit production. Should you need more assistance with pruning of fruit trees, please contact us for additional resources at uge3181@uga.edu or 706-359-3233.