A website from UGA Cooperative Extension

by Anne Wiskind, Fulton County Master Gardener Extension Volunteer trainee

Message from a Homeowner:

We moved into our home in June 2020.  One of the main selling points was a gorgeous, flat backyard, as we planned on getting a dog. We got a cute puppy in December 2020, who has grown into a 90-pound bundle of energy and whose favorite activity is playing frisbee in the backyard.

So now our backyard looks like this.  The front yard still looks great.

Various turf companies came treat the grass, with no improvement. Copies of 2 soil reports are attached. The turf has been identified as zoysiagrass by a plant ID app. Can anything be done to salvage this yard?  Getting rid of the dog is not an option.

How does a Master Gardener approach this problem?

Additional questions for the homeowner:

  • Did you ask how the previous owners maintained the lawn?
  • Have you maintained a regular maintenance schedule of fertilization, soil amendments and pest management?
  • When did you first notice the problem and has it been stable or getting worse?
  • What has been your mowing schedule and what type of mower do you use?
  • Have there been any sunlight changes to your yard?
  • How often has the yard been core aerified? Dethatched?
  • How much do you water?
  • Has anything been sprayed or spilled on the lawn? 

Master Gardener response:

Zoysiagrass is a common warm-season turfgrass that is widely used in Georgia.  Like bermudagrass, it spreads by both rhizomes (belowground roots) and stolons (aboveground roots) to form a dense turf that is relatively resilient to heavy wear. It also is drought- and shade-tolerant, so it is suited to hot Georgia summers. It prefers a higher soil pH (6.0-7.0) than other grasses and has a low nitrogen requirement of 1-2 pounds per 1000 square feet per year. However, it requires care and maintenance, particularly with heavy dog traffic.  Grass must be healthy in order to repair itself.

A healthy lawn requires a management plan, including fertilization, irrigation, mowing and cultivation.  A pre-emergent herbicide is also generally recommended as part of a sound lawn care regimen and is usually applied in February or March for warm-season grasses such as zoysia. Contact your Extension agent or the Georgia Pest Management Handbook for current herbicide recommendations.  Make sure you choose one that is safe for dogs and apply according to all instructions on the label.

Fertilization

Fertilization of zoysiagrass usually begins in May once the soil temperature is consistently 65 degrees. The type and amount of fertilizer should be based on your most recent soil test results. Incidence of disease increases and root growth decreases when soil fertility is unbalanced with either too much or too little fertilizer.  It is importance to apply fertilizer at the appropriate nutrient rate based on the soil analysis. The UGA Weather Network website can give information on soil temperature in your area. Fertilizer should be reapplied about every six weeks during the summer growing season until about six weeks before the first frost date. (Anticipated date of the first frost can also be found at http://weather.uga.edu).  

Watering

Being drought-tolerant, zoygiagrass does not require routine watering except in periods of prolonged drought or at the first sign of moisture stress. Typical signs of moisture stress include dulling of the grass with leaf blade folding or rolling.  Footprints may also remain on the turf after walking.  The lawn should not be watered more than one inch per week.  Too much water can be as detrimental as too little. 

Evidence of grass injury after too much water/flooding is the development of dead, brown areas after the water recedes due to root death as the oxygen in the soil is replaced by water. The result is “suffocation” of the roots.  This is exacerbated in compacted soil.  Diseases (especially fungi) also thrive in moisture. 

Mowing

Proper mowing is an essential component of lawn care.  Zoysiagrass performs better when cut with a reel mower with sharp blades. Frayed edges of injured grass blades are more susceptible to pathogens.  It is important not to remove more than one third of the grass blades at one time. Zoysiagrass prefers to be cut at 1-1.5 inches, and up to 2 inches (or more) in hot weather.

 Whether or not the grass clippings are removed from the lawn depends on the level of thatch, which is the layer of decomposed organic matter between the soil surface and the green vegetation.  An ideal layer of thatch is ½ inch thick.  Grass clippings are very nutrient-dense, but too much thatch prevents water and oxygen from reaching the roots.  Soft, spongy grass may be a sign of excess thatch.  Excessive thatch is usually removed in the spring and fall.

Cultivation

Core aerification is one the most important practices of turfgrass cultivation, especially in high traffic lawns that are especially prone to soil compaction.  Compacted soil has decreased pore space in the soil, which limits water infiltration, gas exchange and root growth.  This usually appears as thinning grass and the development of foot paths.  Decreased water infiltration may result in more standing water on the lawn, which adds additional stress and susceptibility to pathogens.  Hollow tine mechanical core aerification helps decrease soil compaction and increases availability of water and oxygen to roots, allowing the grass to recover.

Recommendations for the homeowner:

  • Obtain an updated soil test and consider submitting a sample to UGA for turf species and cultivar identification.
  • Remove all weeds and excess thatch. 
  • Cultivate the soil with hollow tine mechanical core aerification. Consider topdressing with soil and organic matter and working them into the turf canopy.
  • Correct the soil pH and apply fertilizer as recommended by updated soil test and turf identification.
  • Zoysiagrass does not propagate from seed, so the options to repair bare areas are with sod, plugs, or sprigs.  Sod is the most expensive option but probably the only one that has a chance to survive the dog.  Try to prevent the dog from peeing on new sod or dilute the area with water to prevent plant damage. 
  • It is noted that a new wood fence was also added since moving in, which will further decrease air movement, hold onto moisture and promote fungus.  It was noted that grass was not growing near the old fence previously as it appears to be mostly weeds.  With the addition of the wood fence, it is even less likely grass will survive there.  A better option may be to place mulch (and possibly shrubs or a groundcover) along the fenceline and in the very high traffic areas near the shed.  Mulch will be better than bare soil to manage water infiltration and soil erosion and will hopefully decrease muddy pawprints in the house.
  • Drainage appears to be a significant problem in the current photos.  If the standing water is not improved after core aerification, adding an in-ground French drain may need to be considered.  Fungicide should be applied on a regular schedule if moist conditions remain.
  • Consider professional maintenance with a Georgia Certified Landscape Professional, as the requirements to maintain a healthy lawn, especially with dogs, can be quite challenging. 

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