Seed saving is an old practice that has become less common in recent years. Before World War II seed catalogues that offered varieties of seeds from all over were not common, so if you planted a garden you would have to save your own seed each year to be able to plant again next year. Very recently, seed saving has risen in popularity again as a way to become more self sufficient or to preserve old varieties of plants that otherwise would go extinct. Let’s talk some of the basics of seed saving today.
To save quality seed is a bit more complicated than simply picking seeds from the garden. Plants have a couple of different mechanisms of pollination that they might use. Some are cross pollinated which means the pollen has to move from the anther of one plant to the stigma of a different plant. Apples are an example. Self-pollinated means that the pollen travels from the anther of a plant to the stigma on the same plant. Tomatoes are an example. Plants that can cross pollinate are more difficult to save seed. This is because they could have cross pollinated with a different variety that was also planted nearby. The resulting seed from this cross would not have the same characteristics as its parents. Self-pollinated plants like tomatoes and beans are a good place to start for beginner seed savers. As you master easy plants you can move onto more difficult plants like cucumber, squash, or carrots.
You want to harvest seed when the fruit has reached physiological maturity. To reach physiological maturity plants have to be allowed to grow beyond the stage where you would normally harvest them. Reaching physiological maturity means that the seeds will have better germination and vigor. Wet-seeded crops have seeds that are embedded in the fruit. Think tomato or squash. Wet-seeds need to be scooped out, washed, and dried. Some wet-seeds need to go through a fermentation process. Place the seeds into a jar and add an equal amount of water. Place the jar out of sunlight for 4 to 5 days, stirring daily. Viable seeds will sink to the bottom. Bad seeds will float on the top. Let the good seeds dry out for a week before storing. Dry-seeded crops have seeds in husks or pods on the plant. Think corn, beans, or broccoli. Dry-seeds can be separated from the plant and brought indoors to dry before storing.
Storage of seeds is very important to maintain good germination rates and seed longevity. Seeds should be stored in a cool, dark place. Storing seeds in a refrigerator can add several years to how long a seed lasts. Seeds that have been dried down to 5-7% moisture and are frozen will give the best viability. Minimize temperature and moisture fluctuations as much as possible. Pests like rodents and insects will also feed on seeds if they are able. The oldest seed to germinate is a date palm from Israel that was about 2,000 years old! You should not expect your saved seed to last anywhere near that long. Plant most of your saved seed the following season for best germination.
If you have questions about saving seed contact your County Extension Office or email me at Jacob.Williams@uga.edu. There is also a seed saving starter guide on the UGA Extension website that has a lot of great information.