Trees and Shrubs – Do not pile mulch against the trunks of trees. This can
encourage possible insect and water problems. Mulch should be approximately
6 to 8 inches away on all sides.
Lichens growing on your tree trunk may be an indication that your tree is
stressed from soil compaction, poor drainage or insufficient fertilizer.
Water roses with a soaker hose to keep water off the foliage and possibly
prevent blackspot.
Fertilize azaleas, rhododendrons, and roses now, following label directions.
Mulch newly planted blueberry plants to insulate shallow roots from heat and
drought.
Prune climbing roses after they finish flowering.
Prune off sprouts from the base of crape myrtles that are being trained to an
upright tree form.
Wait until after your azaleas have bloomed to prune them (if pruning is needed).
This is also an ideal time to fertilize them.
Remove faded blooms from rhododendrons to increase the buds that make the
blooms for next year.
Remove low-hanging and dead limbs from shade trees.
It is still not too late to set out roses.
Vegetables – Plant rosemary, basil, thyme and other herbs to enhance summer
meals. Herbs are a good choice for a flowerbox for your patio. Most herbs grow
best in full sun, but mint, cilantro, parsley and thyme tolerate moderate shade.
Tomatoes can be grown in containers on a sunny deck or patio. Bush-type
tomatoes do better in containers; plant in a large pot at least 24 inches across
filled with good quality planting soil. Fertilize and water tomatoes regularly.
Plant peppers by the first part of June for summer harvest.
Strong sun and wind are hard on new transplants. Set them out in the late
afternoon so the plants have overnight to acclimatize.
Fertilize your vegetable garden every four to six weeks during the summer,
always following label directions.
Flowerbeds – Seeds of annual flowers like zinnias, cosmos, salvia, marigolds,
and nasturtiums can be seeded directly into prepared flowerbeds.
Replace pansies with summer annuals and plant ornamental grasses now.
As your spring flowering bulbs die back, plant bulb beds with annuals for summer
color, being careful not to disturb your bulbs.
Remove invasive plants like Chinese privet, poison ivy and English ivy from your
landscape.
Do not remove daffodil foliage after they have bloomed until it turns yellow. The
leaves absorb sunshine for energy and nutrition for the bulbs so they can bloom
again next year.
Look for Lenten rose seedlings underneath your mature plants and transplant
them to other shady spots in your garden.
Pinch out terminal growth (the tip) of annuals to make bushy plants and
encourage growth.
Use rubber soaker hoses among shrubs and flowers in beds and mulch with pine
straw to put the water where the plants need it and to conserve water this
summer.
Fertilize flowerbeds with a slow-release fertilizer.
Move or replant irises if they did not bloom very well last season.
Variegated hosta may turn green when grown in lots of sun. It\u2019s best to grow
hosta where it does not get hot afternoon sun.
Plant annual vines like moon flower vine and purple hyacinth bean to disguise
ugly walls and enliven fences.
Plant sunflowers for a sunny summer flower arrangement.
Weed flowerbeds and borders regularly.
Caladiums need generous amounts of water and fertilizer to continually produce
new leaves during the summer.
Houseplants – Rejuvenate houseplants by lightly pruning them and moving them
outdoors to a partly sunny\/partly shady area for the summer. Start fertilizing at
half the recommended strength.
Miscellaneous – Look for fire ant mounds and treat with appropriate insecticides,
always following label directions.
Jo Anne Allen
Master Gardener Extension Volunteer<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
Trees and Shrubs – Do not pile mulch against the trunks of trees. This can encourage possible insect and water problems. Mulch should be approximately6 to 8 inches away on all sides.Lichens growing on your tree trunk may be an indication that your tree is stressed from soil compaction, poor drainage or insufficient fertilizer.Water roses […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":340,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[11],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-354","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-master-gardener-chores"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/site.extension.uga.edu\/townsandunionag\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/354","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/site.extension.uga.edu\/townsandunionag\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/site.extension.uga.edu\/townsandunionag\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/site.extension.uga.edu\/townsandunionag\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/340"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/site.extension.uga.edu\/townsandunionag\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=354"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/site.extension.uga.edu\/townsandunionag\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/354\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":384,"href":"https:\/\/site.extension.uga.edu\/townsandunionag\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/354\/revisions\/384"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/site.extension.uga.edu\/townsandunionag\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=354"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/site.extension.uga.edu\/townsandunionag\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=354"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/site.extension.uga.edu\/townsandunionag\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=354"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}