{"id":496,"date":"2020-03-26T10:41:41","date_gmt":"2020-03-26T14:41:41","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/site.extension.uga.edu\/benhillcoag\/?p=496"},"modified":"2020-03-26T10:41:42","modified_gmt":"2020-03-26T14:41:42","slug":"pecan-budbreak-update","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/site.extension.uga.edu\/benhillcoag\/2020\/03\/pecan-budbreak-update\/","title":{"rendered":"Pecan Budbreak Update"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Young Trees<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pecan Budmoth<\/strong> \u2013 Adults overwinter under bark scales\nthen start laying eggs in the Spring. Eggs hatch in about 6 days and the larvae\nthen feed on buds and leaves. The tips of the leaves may look necrotic or\nburned. They stay in larvae stage for 2 weeks, it takes about a month to\ncomplete a generation. They can have 5 or 6 generations in a year. This maybe\nwhy we had so much damage last year. They seemed to keep hammering young trees\nover and over. They can damage an old tree, but first year trees are what they\nneed to be worried about. They can kill a first year tree for sure.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

What do they need to do?<\/em> The best thing is scout for\nthem first. Once you see or confirm damage from budmoths, apply insecticide.\nTiny larvae will be cream colored and mature larvae will be yellow-green and\nhave brown head. Terminals and tips of leaves look burned up.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

What insecticide to use?<\/em> Worm materials better than\nLorsban if you catch it early. We used Lorsban a lot last year because the\nproblem got so bad, we needed a quick knock-down. If you catch early, I would\ndo:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

  1. Intrepid<\/li>
  2. Intrepid Edge<\/li>
  3. Dimlin<\/li>
  4. Minecto Pro<\/li><\/ol>\n\n\n\n

    The main difference is with Minecto Pro or anything\ncontaining the cyantraniliprole family, Dr. Hudson says has a long residual.\nCould be a month? It is more expensive though. I think catching them early,\nDimlin and Intrepid is fine.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
    \"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    Photo of budmoth caterpillar from Ben Reeves last year. 2nd<\/sup>\nis photo of damage.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Asian Ambrosia Beetle<\/strong> \u2013 Though numbers are not high\nthis year, just communicate with growers that they tend to have two spikes: 1)\nFeb\/March then again April\/May. Most important on first year tree.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n

    \"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    Photo of adult AAB trying to get in a trap and exit hole\nfrom a trap I took last Friday.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Mature Trees<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Pecan Leaf Phylloxera<\/strong> \u2013 These are tiny, aphid-like\ninsects that cause the warts on the leaves. Usually they are found in orchards\nthat are a lot older. There are 3 or so species. Some cause the warts on the\nleaves and others cause the warts on the stems. Since I have been in Extension,\nthey generally say the stem phylloxera is worse and may hurt yield. Leaf\nphylloxera isn\u2019t as serious, but if left unchecked does get worse. So overall,\na grower needs to do something for it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Control \u2013 They must be sprayed for at budbreak, and\nimidacloprid is what we use. The reason we spray at budbreak is eggs hatch now\nand young go straight to the buds to feed. Their feeding forms those galls,\nwhich encapsulates them. Once the galls form, insecticide cannot penetrate.\nSometimes this gets difficult when you have multiple varieties that have this\nissue but budbreak at different times. While an agent in Thomas County, Dr.\nHudson and I tried drenching imidacloprid at the base of trees in Dec, Jan, Feb\nand March with the idea that it would take up the insecticide for budbreak. It\nnever worked. So budbreak spray is the only thing we can do.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    Pecan leaf phylloxera<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Scab<\/strong> \u2013 On this subject, the growers are going to do\nwhat they do and that\u2019s fine. I wanted to share some thoughts on this mostly to\nnewer agents with pecan interest.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Where I started as ANR agent in Thomas County, growers began\nfungicide spray at budbreak simply because all they have is Desirable, Stuart\nand Pawnee (High susceptible cultivars) and a very low elevation. They have\nbeen burned by scab so much, they start this early. With that being said, Dr.\nWells would tell me that they don\u2019t have to start that early and can wait until\nleaves unfolded some. This is because the fungicide must contact leaf surface.\nAnd..You really don\u2019t know how many catkins are breaking bud with leaves\neither. If we get fungicide on more catkins than leaves, it\u2019s pointless since\nthe tree will shed catkins.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    In light of the greater use phosphite fungicides now, I\nspoke with Dr. Brenneman today on this exact issue. I asked if there has been a\ndifference in leaf scab (or nut scab) if a grower cuts out his \u2018budbreak spray\u2019\nand begins at parachute stage. Tim said it all depends on rain. The last 2\nyears, our Springs were dry. So, a grower could almost wait until nut sizing to\nbegin scab sprays and be okay. When it is raining, however, there may be a\ndifference in a budbreak spray on a susceptible cultivar (Desirable, Pawnee,\nCunnard, and Byrd) and waiting another 2 weeks. We know that scab on nuts has a\ndirect effect on kernel quality and yield. What about leaf scab?<\/em> If\nleaf scab gets out of control, nut scab control becomes more difficult.<\/strong>\nBottom line, you can\u2019t let leaf scab get out of hand.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Back to the phosphites \u2013 what we know is that they\ntranslocate much further in a tree. In older trees, they will translocate into\nthe stem. In young trees, phosphites can translocate to the roots. Your Group\n11 and Group 3 are systemic, but mostly stay close to where they touch the\nleaf. Therefore, with phosphite, an early spray WILL get into the leaves and\ntrees MORE and really could be beneficial in a rainy season.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    \n\n\n\nHere is a picture I took in 2017 in Thomas\nCounty of (Left) parachute stage and (right) \n\n\n\n<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

    Young Trees Pecan Budmoth \u2013 Adults overwinter under bark scales then start laying eggs in the Spring. Eggs hatch in about 6 days and the larvae then feed on buds and leaves. The tips of the leaves may look necrotic or burned. They stay in larvae stage for 2 weeks, it takes about a month […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":234,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[3],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-496","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-pecans"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/site.extension.uga.edu\/benhillcoag\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/496","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/site.extension.uga.edu\/benhillcoag\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/site.extension.uga.edu\/benhillcoag\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/site.extension.uga.edu\/benhillcoag\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/234"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/site.extension.uga.edu\/benhillcoag\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=496"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/site.extension.uga.edu\/benhillcoag\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/496\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":502,"href":"https:\/\/site.extension.uga.edu\/benhillcoag\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/496\/revisions\/502"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/site.extension.uga.edu\/benhillcoag\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=496"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/site.extension.uga.edu\/benhillcoag\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=496"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/site.extension.uga.edu\/benhillcoag\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=496"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}